I'll Take a Box of Thin Mints Please...

When I wear this outfit I either feel like a character from Wes Anderson's "Moonrise Kingdom" (which feels really good) or I feel as if I should be asking you how many boxes of thin mints you would like (A more peculiar feeling).

It was one of those outfits that was made in a flurry of "I have nothing to wear!" panic. While that usually ends in a poorly made, ill fitting garment this one actually came out perfectly. I even took the time to interface, line and make the matching tie - adorned with the perfect vintage button.

Because I was so pleased with it I ended up wearing it on a date with a very handsome man. I felt like a million dollars. Since then it has been my go to outfit for any first meetings, good impression makings, in need of confidence boostings etc.

Do you have any go to ensembles like that?

I found about 3 metres of this fabric for $6 dollars at a second hand shop. I can't believe I "ummed" and "Ahhhed" over it for so long and then nearly put it back. Sometimes I questions my own mind! Obviously my sanity came back just in time for me to purchase it. Good Girl, Molly.

It is a home decor weight printed twill that looks as though it was from the 70's.

I'm sure you will find that it gets made up many times in various fabrics. I say that only because I know for a fact that it has a pink wool twin sitting in my wardrobe waiting to be photographed.

Both the Skirt and Tie are self drafted and so simple and fun to make up!

While its been quiet on the blog front, my hands have been ever busy. I've taken an exciting venture into the world of knitting! Its slow moving, but terribly addicting. I can't wait to share my projects with you!

Mx

New Year, New Dress

And now it's April and I'm only just getting around to showing it to you.

I whipped this number up in such a flurry! My New Years plans were still up in the air until the day before, so I ended up making it the day of. Sadly that means it's quality took a serious hit! but none the less, it's still wearable.

You may not be able to tell but this dress is made up from four different types of fabric. The yardage is insane, and I didn't have enough black in my stash in the same quality. So I literally used every different black I could lay my hands on. It's an odd mix of Elastane/Cotton/Wool, Rayon, Poly Georgette and then the lovely silk printed panelling.

I actually got the silk from work. It was a print strike off that was rejected. It was later altered minutely and put it into production.
A week ago I wore it to work, much to everyone's confusion."did we do that style?" "I don't remember that one!" - Nope, this is all me! (As said proudly by any seamstress just dying for someone to ask her where her dress is from.)

If you have an amazing memory, you'll remember this dress from this post.

The hem has dropped massively on the wool side, as the fabric is so heavy; particularly in contrast to the sheer lightness of the silk on the other side. But lets just call it artistic and keep that been you and I.

I actually haven't worked with silk before. It was seriously difficult! Damn, that stuff moves about like crazy. It's as if it was trying to avoid my scissors! Can anyone offer me any tips on cutting silk without it running away?

I used India tape in the hem and seams on the silk side  in a bid to try to weight it down, and also to prevent any seam slippage around the hips. I'm not sure if it did anything really, but physiologically I feel like its more sturdy.

Despite its hodge-podge-ness (Yes, that is a word ) it's a very fun dress to wear. It's nearly a full circle and has tremendous body in the skirt. Everyone here knows I'm an absolute sucker for a swishy dress that blows around dramatically as I walk. Clearly I fancy myself a princess.

Well, no more sewing for at least a week for me now. I'm getting all packed up and ready for move day next weekend. I'm very much looking forward to it. That said I have a few more things up my sleeve to share with you shortly, Maybe even the next "Wicked Stitch".

Until Then,

Mx

An Australian Autumn

The calender tells me that it is officially Autumn, 12 days in in fact  The weather outside tells another story; humid, 27 Degrees and indecisive between sun and rain.

Although I live in a country that has undefined seasons, I can't help but get swept up in the ideals of Autumn, the chill that will soon inhabit the air, the changing of leaves, the autumnal colour spectrum. To me it also says saddle back shoes, tweed blazers and the ability to wear stockings again without passing out from the heat.

There is so much I want to create for Autumn/Winter but as previously mentioned my sewing has taken a massive hit due to recent moves and space changes. That said everything is being packed up AGAIN to move AGAIN. Ah, the inconsistencies of youth! So the sewing scene is looking pretty dismal. Fingers crossed that it will soon all settle and I can happily sit at my sewing machine again.

A girl can only dream though, and if I somehow manage find the time; this is what I plan to channel -

You might notice much of it is sweater heavy, and no I haven't become a whiz on the needles over night; rather I have been doing a little study and inspirational research for my new job. As you may recall I was ranting on about my high hopes for a new career, and ladies and gentlemen its finally happened. In 12 days I will be starting a new job as a Womenswear Design Assistant, working primarily with knitwear. Golly, I am excited. It is only a short contract, but none the less I plan on making the most of it!

I fully acknowledge that all my posts, while also having the disadvantage of being few and far between, have been very word heavy. I really hope I'm not boring you, But believe it or not I have actually done some sewing, which I pinky promise to show you very shortly. Somehow in the last move I managed to misplace my camera's battery charger, but don't distress, it has been located!

For those on this side of the hemisphere - what are you Autumn plans? and those on the other side (who seem to be stuck in a perpetual winter) dare I ask - have you started on your Spring wardrobes?

Mx

I've been up to something..

Instagram! This was one trend I never saw myself jumping on board with. It would take me a world of time just to get around to taking pictures of my sewing creations let alone daily snaps of my life! But lo and behold, I signed up and I am not ashamed to admit that I am totally addicted!

Here's a sneak peek at what I have been up to...

Feel free to follow me. My username is @Molly88.

You may even see some sewing projects in the works!

Mx

Molly's "Musings"

I've  been a little at odds with blogging recently. It always comes in ebbs and flows for me; I most certainly don't fancy myself much of a dedicated blogger. None the less my wee little blog has always been very important to me. I've managed to stick with it now for 2 years; and that somewhat of a feat for me!

By the end of 2012 I had lost much of my sewing inspiration. I moved houses and said goodbye to my enormous sewing space. My fabric got packed up in boxes and put out of arms reach, my machine was put in one room, while my sewing box, patterns and haberdashery in another. It all just became too hard. That wasn't the only thing that changed. I'm just going to say it folks, I got bored. Bored with my blog, bored with its look and yes, a little bored with vintage.

I honestly don't even remember the last time I wore my petticoat (Gasp!)

So I sat back and had a good hard think about what I wanted to do with my sewing, and with myself in 2013 and nothing came.

Call it Serendipity but just then, I stumbled upon Fleur's Post over at Diary of a Vintage girl. Did you read it?

Fleur's words resonated with me, so I left a comment. Initially intended as a few supportive words; Instead my feelings towards my own blog just started pouring out.

This is what I said -

Thanks so much for sharing Fleur, I always enjoy your musings. I have been feeling much the same; though I've just sat back and watched as my own blogging becomes sparser and sparser. Christmas time almost saw me give it up for ever! But then 2013 came, and like you I felt a little bit of new hope. I often feel that a blog brands us with an identity, one that we have created for ourselves, but when we want to steer away from that Identity we feel as if we're betraying our readers; for you I can imagine this is even more so. In the end though, we blog about our lives for ourselves, as an outlet - so we can write, photograph, communicate and entertain. Do what makes you happy; and if that means word heavy posts and less dresses, so be it, even if it means temporarily "re-branding". I will read them, and happily so. After all, we all grow and change, both in our lives and in our interests and styles; its only natural that our blogs should reflect this.

Much Love and support,
Molly x

I had realized that the reason I was bored with my blog and with vintage was because that it had become unchallenging to me.

Now keep in mind, this is ME talking, and everything I say must be taken with a grain of salt. I love vintage, I always will. Its the glamour and the femininity that will never lose my favour; but when it comes to sewing vintage, my interest has wandered. I want to branch out, to go a little wacky, to try bold, tailored modern, gypsy bohemian - Who knows. I DO know certain vintage silhouettes will always influence me - but I just don't think I want to dedicate my life to them anymore.

I have always been afraid of being pigeonholed. I almost stopped wearing vintage when everyone around me started calling it "my style". While I was pleased that my style was noticeable, I was so afraid that I had become predictable. This behaviour may have a bit to do with why I find it so hard to choose a career path.

In the end I think its time for a little change. Change is good; exciting. I'm not entirely sure what that entails just yet. But I can smell it on the horizon. Its January 2013 now. I have very high hopes for this year. Not just for this blog, but for my career and for the creative challenges I plan to set myself.

Do you have any plans for change this year? I would love to hear about them!

Mx

The Year That Was...

Well, what an odd little year that was. I'll be the first to admit that it most certainly wasn't the year of productive blogging! With a mere 30 posts over a whole year, one could say I was a little distracted...

It was the year that saw me design and sample up a range of  "deluxe lined hoodies" for an innovation company - and consequently become the master of the welt pocket.

It saw me as a reviewer for the Sydney Fringe Festival (you can read my reviews here and here if you like).

and move houses.

It was only 2 blocks away, but it meant saying goodbye to all my beloved sewing space.

It was the year I cat sat - 

Miss Nelly

Crazy Kiki

Partied Underwater - 

and started 2 new fashion internships on top of my full time job.

It was the year I entered the Tessuti Awards competition.

Rode the Zig Zag Railway

and made Gnocchi from scratch for the first time

It was the year that I saw my own dress in a REAL BOOK in my local Bookstore

(the pale blue dress and the bottom)

Sewed and shipped 7 skirts and 8 collars to be sold in a darling boutique in Zurich, Switzerland

 Dotti's Boutique - Isn't it just beautiful!? 

And become a Cat, A princess and an Evil Witch.

It saw times in the City - 

And times by the Sea - 

It was the year of merriment with family,

and the embracing of the New Year with Friends - 

And yet after all that I feel like it was my most unproductive year so far. With that said, its been a year of change, a year of transition and most importantly a year of inspiration. It has set me up for 2013, hopefully a year of productivity, success and happiness and I'm thoroughly excited to get started with it.

I sincerely hope that this is not only "my year" but yours too. I look forward to sharing the adventure!

Mx

Christmas Hiatus

And in the blink of an eye, it's Christmas time all over again! How did that happen?

I also just moved houses 3 weeks ago, so things have been a little mad and I must digress there has been little to no Christmas sewing going on around here!

None the less I'm looking forward to short break from work to settle nicely into my new home, and hopefully enjoy a little of this on and off again summer that we're having.

So until next time, Merry Christmas to you all and have a happy New Year!

Much Love xx

Mxx

The Wicked Stitch: Through the Looking Glass

How would you like to live in Looking-glass House, Kitty? I wonder if they'd give you milk in there? Perhaps Looking-glass milk isn't good to drink -- But oh, Kitty! now we come to the passage. 

You can just see a little peep of the passage in Looking-glass House, if you leave the door of our drawing-room wide open: and it's very like our passage as far as you can see, only you know it may be quite different on beyond. 

Oh, Kitty! how nice it would be if we could only get through into Looking- glass House! I'm sure it's got, oh! such beautiful things in it!

Let's pretend there's a way of getting through into it, somehow, Kitty. Let's pretend the glass has got all soft like gauze, so that we can get through. Why, it's turning into a sort of mist now, I declare! It'll be easy enough to get through -- 

' She was up on the chimney-piece while she said this, though she hardly knew how she had got there. 

And certainly the glass was beginning to melt away, just like a bright silvery mist.

In another moment Alice was through the glass,

                                                                                                Lewis Carroll - Through the looking Glass

**

This is the dress I made for the Tessuti Awards competition. Sadly I didn't even get into the finals, but I am proud that I finished it in time. I had been meaning to enter the competition for the last few years! and finally I did it! Next year I'm just going to have to step up my game a bit!

None the less, here is my dress - Does it not remind you very much of Alice? I thought it was a perfect match.

I certainly steered my my original plans, posted here, and ended up mixing together 3 different patterns together and improvising here and there.

I had a lot of fun playing around with multi directional stripes. Although I'm uncertain how flattering the horizontal stripe is across the middle.

I used Tessuti's "Tap Water" Japanese cotton. Its delightfully sheer and soft and has a slight seersucker effect. However, this meant I had to line the entire dress, which I did with a white cotton voile.

I also made my own bias binding for the arm holes. I love the effect of the diagonal stripes against the vertical. It really is the smallest things when sewing that you fall in love with!

Stripe matching wasn't always possible, but there where a few places where it was. I love the chevron stripes on the hips.

I also used a red bias tape around the waist on the inside as a little waist stay. Mostly it was just there for decorative purposes, but it also helps to stop the waist from stretching out, seeing as the fabrics are both quite light and delicate.

The weather is slowly warming up here in Sydney and when it does I see this dress getting a lot of wear. Its going to be perfect and breathable for those hot sticky Sydney summers.

Mx

The Wicked Stitch: Briar Rose

Whilst wandering the castle one evening, the young princess came upon a spinning wheel. She had never seen anything like it before. Her mother had forbidden her from wandering alone and sheltered her from so much. The young princess crept into the room and sat upon the stool placed beside the wheel. She felt a cool breeze that danced and rippled up her spine. She unknowingly reached out and touched the spindles needle. It pierced her fingers flesh and as one small bead of blood dropped from her finger, she too dropped from her stool, asleep. 

She would sleep for one hundred years. The king and the queen felt helpless with grief. They had tried relentlessly to protect her. Time crept by. In their old age, when they knew that they would no longer be able to protect their sleeping child, they built a mighty fortress and locked their princess in the tallest tower. There she would be able to sleep, protected. The king and the queen said good bye to their beloved daughter and as they left for the last time, they wept. From each tear that hit the ground, a briar rose bush grew. It grew fiercer, and stronger that any ever before. In time the bush covered the  entire fortress. No one could pass their steely thorns and the princess slept untouched. 

In a neighbouring kingdom a young prince heard of a tale. A tale of a beautiful princess that had been cursed to sleep for 100 years unless woken by the kiss of her prince. The tale touched his heart and unlike those around him, he was not content to speak the tale in whispers by the fire; instead he set out to find the princess and free her from her dreadful curse.

The brave prince found the fortress and with all his might he fought his way the steely briars and up to the tower where the princess slept.

When his lips touched hers she awoke and she smiled. The curse had been broken.

***

For this skirt I used Simplicity 5006 with a few alterations. I'd made it before, minus the ruffle, so it was an absolute breeze to put together. The most time consuming part was pleating the ruffle, and hemming it. 

The ruffle circumference ended up being about 3 meters!

I added 4 small tucks at the front of the waist band so its a little less "clingy" and was little more comfortable.

I chose to add an exposed black and gold metal zip to "funk" the project up and ironically, pull it away from the fairy tale side of things, making it more wearable in real life.

I also sewed my label in there for fun! Notice how the colour scheme (minutely so) is green, pink and blue?? of course you did! Does anyone remember the 3 fairy god mothers is Disney's rendition of sleeping beauty? I had them in mind whilst sewing. Its my little nod to Disney.

The fabric is a chartreuse (the worlds loveliest colour, and the most elegantly named) polished cotton. I scored it at the remnant warehouse for $2 a meter. There was only 5 left, so I took the whole roll.

I also used some hot pink satin bias binding on the inside where the ruffle attaches to the skirt. I love having colourful details on the inside that are just there for me to know about (oh, and you guys too now). It makes the project a little more exciting.

Although this was a quick make, technicality wise, I did take my time with it. I french seamed my seams and everything. Other than the zipper tape, I feel like this skirt could almost be worn inside out if it so tickled my fancy.

In real life I like to wear this with a black tank, black brogues and a wrist full of gold bangles - then I feel more like Esmerelda from Hunchback of Notre Dame - but thats a tale for another time.

Mx

Just in the nick of time!

Phew, I made it! And just in time too!

Thanks a million to all your wonderful comments and encouragement, not to mention stripe matching tips! You guys are seriously AWESOME!

Check out my entry here.

Mx

To Sew, or Not to Sew?

.... for the Tessuti Awards Competition that is!

I had planned on entering last year (but didn't) and then planned on it again this year (but haven't!). Without realising, time flew by super fast, and now I only have 13 days until the competition closes! Golly!

In my panic I went out and bought $100 worth of Tessuti Fabric (Gosh, Just writing that out loud makes me nauseous) I have never spent that much on Fabric EVER! but hey, that's Tessuti's for you!

Here's the Plan - I'm going to use Vintage Butterick #6538. I have Photoshopped (very haphazardly) my stripes onto the pattern envelope picture just to get an idea of how its going to look -

What do you think??

 A. Is it good enough for my very expensive fabric?

B. Will I be able to do it in time and not botch my very expensive fabric?

C. Will I have a panic attack when it comes time to cut my fabric?

Oh and have I mentioned that I have never matched striped before? Ever!

Mx

The Wicked Stitch: Maleficent

Once Upon a Time...

There once stood a small village at the foot of a large castle. The king and queen ruled kindly and the Kingdom and village lived in peace and prosperity. It was a special day in the village.  All were merry and preparing for a celebration, for it was the christening of the Princess; the first and long awaited child of the King and Queen. Invitations were sent to the royal court, the villagers, and to seven fairy god Mothers, all whom would bestow gifts, big and small upon the new Princess – all but one.

Maleficent, the wicked fairy god mother was Evil above all else. Her powers scared everyone but herself.

The christening was not long kept secret, for Maleficent had eyes and ears everywhere, from the winged crows to the tallest trees.  Upon hearing of her royal exclusion, Maleficent flew into a rage unlike anything before. She a devised a plan. She would attend the christening regardless and there she would bestow a gift upon the baby, an evil gift.

And so she did – she cursed the baby. Upon the age of 15, before the sun set before her 16 birthday the Princess would prick her finger on the spindle of a spinning wheel and die!

Unbeknownst to Maleficent only 6 of the Fairy God Mothers had given their gifts. The last softened the curse of Maleficent.  While she could not stop the princess from pricking her finger, she instead would fall into a slumber, for 100 years until woken by the kiss of her Prince Charming…

In Reality....

Recognize the Fancy Pants from last year?

I know I say this every time, but this is the best thing I have ever made! It blows everything else out of the water. The making of this jacket even brought on a small revelation (for a later post). I'm not going to lie, it took a really long time to make, like a month and a half. Not because that's how long you would actually need to make it, but because I made a toile, I made adjustments, I altered the pattern for future reference and most importantly I didn't rush it! I took my time, I blind stitched the hem by hand, along with the lining, and I enjoyed it.

I used an early 1940's Vintage Vogue pattern (I'll post the number when I find it). It depicted the jacket as more of a cotton or viscose dress jacket to be worn over a slip, however I interpreted it as a modern/vintage suit jacket.

I made it out of a nice mid weight crepe with great drape, and fully lined it in beautiful liquid Mercury grey silk. It has a nice nipped waist where it closes with an internal button and loop. But instead of yammering on about the details, here are some close ups -

And yes, all my seams are perfectly aligned, I think it might just be a first!

Ah the joys of an even hem!



There is something so delightfully sleek and dramatic about this jacket. It has won my heart a thousand times over. I wear it so often, and over so  many things. To me, its completely timeless.

What's your all time favourite make? Do you wear it all the time?

I hope you have enjoyed the first enstallment of The Wicked Stitch - There will certainly be more tales to come!

Mx